NO. They are not a mini pig or a potbellied pig.

They are a naturally small, pure bred, heirloom breed of pig, and they are less expensive than mini pigs. Prices range from $500 (for a 8 - 10 weeks old) to $300 (for about 6 months - 1 year)

NOT HEALTHY. Pigs need fresh air, sunshine, grass and soil, they should be outside for the majority of the day. Very young piglets can be brought inside at night or during very cold weather, but still need the outdoors during the day. Grass is a big part of their diet, and eating soil provides them with micro nutrients and bugs. They are omnivores.

At certain age and size, they should live outside permanently.

Kunes carry a very thick layer of fat and have no trouble with cold or warm weather. Certain precautions have to be taken for extremely hot or cold conditions. See our “PREP FOR PIG” section below.

Even though pigs can be paper or pad trained inside, they prefer to do “business” outside. They never defecate where they eat or sleep, and will prefer a certain corner of the garden to “go”, whatever the weather.

Kunes are a slow growing breed, it takes 2 years to get to full size, at which point it should be about the size of a medium dog (about 75 lbs). Pigs are heavy from natural fat, and they are heavier than they look. Diet is extremely important, so please follow feeding guidelines. See our “FEEDING YOUR PIG” section.

Like a dog, life expectancy can be up to 20 years, normally, 10-15 years.

All males are neutered when sold as pets. Then they are called “barrows”, and do not develop males tendencies, body armor or large tusks. Barrows, actually, are cuddlier than females, and there is no difference in size.

Females cycle every 18 days, but there is no discharge or change in temperament. Her vulva will swell slightly and normally females are not spayed and kept whole.

Kunekunes are very independent and one pig is fine if you have other animals and human company. Two pigs are beneficial as play pals, and extra body heat in the winter, but not necessary.

We do give a discount on a second pig when bought together.

KUNES ARE AMAZINGLY SOCIABLE

Extremely calm, content and do not bite. They will bond and cuddle with you and your cat or dog quickly. Basically, their only concern is FOOD.

We have seen Kunes in fields with bison, horses, cows, sheep, chickens and more. Loud noises do not scare them easily, e.g. lawnmowers, trucks, planes or gunshots.

When properly fed and housed, a pig should stay in good health. If allowed to lay on wet straw, cold ground, or in a draft, they could develop a cold, bronchitis or mange.

The first sign of illness is lethargy and has no interest in it’s feed. Listen for wheezing and check for thick mucus in the nose. Take their temperature rectally, normal is 101 – 102 degrees. Call a large animal vet for a cold symptoms, fever, any swelling, limping or drunken gait.

WORMING: Most animals are born with intestinal round worms. Worming in Spring and Fall is essential. Use worming pellets available at feed stores, or call your vet for a shot. If using pellets, please follow amount directions on package, and mix with regular feed pellets for better taste. When buying on line look for Fenbendazole pellets for swine.

Call us for a list of large animal (livestock) vets in the Long Island area, and we are available to answer any questions.

Yes, your pig would appreciate it! And especially if your pig will be coming into your home occasionally.

Pigs get flaky skin on their backs and it itches. Use a stiff brush with hard coconut oil, it brings out their colors. Wipe eyes gently with a warm damp cloth to wipe off any crusting. Toe nails may need clipping, but walking on soil usually keeps them in check. Clip nails if pig has difficulty walking. Use a goat hoof clipper and clip around the edges of the horseshoe-shaped clove.

TIP: Handle your pig’s feet from an early age and get it used to your touch. Relax the pig with a belly rub, and it should let you clip nails without restraint.

Using a hose on your pig is not a good idea, and they hate it. Water my be pushed into the ear, with bacteria, and cause an ear infection. Pour buckets of sun warmed water over it’s back to wash off mud. Avoid the ears. Baby shampoo or pig shampoo may be used. Never clean out a pig’s ear with a swab.

Pigs have few enemies, due to their natural coating of thick fat, muscle and agility. Predators may try, but pigs have a natural instinct to scream and wiggle when attacked, so hawks, foxes and racoons will vamoose. Big rogue dogs may try, so watch out for strays.

Very small piglets are vulnerable, but, by the age of sale, they will be able to fend off most predators.

Fleas, ticks and mosquitos are no problem, as there’s no blood source that’s reachable on a pig due to their thick layer of fat. Check inside the ear in summer months, ticks can sometimes find some thin skin In that area.

Wallowing in mud is a pig’s favorite pastime. It acts a sunblock for their backs (they sunburn easily) and flop their bellies in it to stay cool. Mud acts as a skin cleanser for pig’s skin, ridding them of any mites and softening flaky skin.

Funnily enough, adult pigs like their wallow in the sun, younger piglets won’t wallow until a little older, but love a kiddie paddling pool with a few inches of water.

Making a wallow is easy. No digging. Read more information about wallows in the “PREP FOR YOUR PIG” section

Pigs don’t like to be picked up as they assume you are a predator and will wiggle and scream. As they get to know you, they probably won’t mind, as they love to be cuddled.

It will hurt if you pick up by the ribs and belly. The trick is to put one hand under the front of the pig, under the breastbone, and cup the other hand under it’s behind. Come in from both ends, so to speak. Then put it on your chest, wrap your arms around and always hold a rear leg with one hand. Legs are their get-a-way, so immobilize one. They can be picked up also by both back legs, for a few seconds, hung upside down, for a quick hoist from pen to container, or into your arms.

Tip: put some food on the ground first, and they are busy eating and will stand still while you grab.

Your Kunekune will be given a herd number assigned by a National Registry in the USA. Every Kunekune piglet is litter notified so a good registry of the breed can be maintained and breeding data watched carefully.

Each piglet comes with a copy of the parent’s bloodlines and breeding information going back 3-4 generations, and its own information of birth, lineage and herd number.

We also microchip each piglet and treat it for worms before leaving.

If, at any time in the first year, you find that pig keeping is not for you, you may return the pig to us (sorry, no refund) and we find it an adoptive family.

Once the decision has been agreed on by all household members, visit our farm, play with the piglets for sale, and the piglet usually chooses you! If undecided, place a small deposit on one you like, and come back again later and make your decision. Or you can wait until another litter is born.

Look around the farm to get ideas for your housing and pen preparations (see section on “Prep for your pig”) and chat to the breeder with any questions. We generally have piglets of all ages, 10 weeks to 1 year. Older piglets are often a better choice if using them on a farm for clean-up, or around horses, cattle or goats.

Please take note: a pig is not a fashion accessory, or a wrestling buddy. It needs to do what pigs do.

We take cash or credit cards for payment. Sorry, no checks.

• • Wonderful companionship for you and your other pets.
• • Great way to teach children about livestock care, not to be afraid.
• • Very calming and cathartic. Try pig yoga, or lay down in their “house” they love to take naps with you.
• • It’s a myth that pigs are dirty. Quite the opposite.
• • Pigs are incredibly intelligent, same as a 3 yr old human.
• • They train very quickly
• • Make great lawn mowers and weed eaters. When your pig is familiar with its home and owners, let it out of the pen to roam. Will clean the place up, especially your woods.
• • Pigs know what’s poisonous, they just won’t eat it.
• • They eat fleas, ticks and mites. Don’t get them either, no blood source
• • Hypoallergenic. They have bristle, not hair or fur.
• • Easy to keep if the pig habitat is set up properly. Low maintenance.