Long Island Kunekune
Registered breeder of Kunekune pigs.
East Moriches, New York

Kunekune Breed History

Pronounced "Cooney-Cooney."

A naturally small breed of pig, originally from New Zealand and raised by the local Maori tribe. Their origin is unknown, but the locals have raised them for hundreds of years. Kunes are innately friendly, calm, highly intelligent and non- aggressive.

New Zealand is a land if lush pasture, so Kunes, of course, are grass eaters, which is the major part of their diet. That’s why they have a short, stubby nose, to mow down the grass. Kunes do not “root” or dig up the ground for food. They are the only pig that actually fatten on grass.

This beautiful breed was almost lost to us 20 years ago, herds dwindled due to high consumption of their meat. But thanks to the diligence of porcine geneticist and dedicated breeders in the U.K., U.S.A., and N.Z. over the last two decades, their numbers and bloodlines are plentiful again.

The Kunekune breed has never been crossed with any other breed of pig, or been manipulated by genetic science, so it is known as a “heirloom” or “heritage” breed. It has kept its natural layer of thick fat that makes it climate hardy, and makes it a good roaster!

Pet Pigs

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Kunes mini pigs?

NO. They are not a mini pig or a potbellied pig.

They are a naturally small, pure bred, heirloom breed of pig, and they are less expensive than mini pigs. Prices range from $500 (for a 8 - 10 weeks old) to $300 (for about 6 months - 1 year)



Can my pig live in my house?

NOT HEALTHY. Pigs need fresh air, sunshine, grass and soil, they should be outside for the majority of the day. Very young piglets can be brought inside at night or during very cold weather, but still need the outdoors during the day. Grass is a big part of their diet, and eating soil provides them with micro nutrients and bugs. They are omnivores.

At certain age and size, they should live outside permanently.

Kunes carry a very thick layer of fat and have no trouble with cold or warm weather. Certain precautions have to be taken for extremely hot or cold conditions. See our “PREP FOR PIG” section below.

Even though pigs can be paper or pad trained inside, they prefer to do “business” outside. They never defecate where they eat or sleep, and will prefer a certain corner of the garden to “go”, whatever the weather.

What is the life expectancy of my pig? What size will it be?

Kunes are a slow growing breed, it takes 2 years to get to full size, at which point it should be about the size of a medium dog (about 75 lbs). Pigs are heavy from natural fat, and they are heavier than they look. Diet is extremely important, so please follow feeding guidelines. See our “FEEDING YOUR PIG” section.

Like a dog, life expectancy can be up to 20 years, normally, 10-15 years.

Should I get a girl or a boy pig? Will I need more than one?

All males are neutered when sold as pets. Then they are called “barrows”, and do not develop males tendencies, body armor or large tusks. Barrows, actually, are cuddlier than females, and there is no difference in size.

Females cycle every 18 days, but there is no discharge or change in temperament. Her vulva will swell slightly and normally females are not spayed and kept whole.

Kunekunes are very independent and one pig is fine if you have other animals and human company. Two pigs are beneficial as play pals, and extra body heat in the winter, but not necessary.

We do give a discount on a second pig when bought together.

I have other animals. Will they get along?

KUNES ARE AMAZINGLY SOCIABLE

Extremely calm, content and do not bite. They will bond and cuddle with you and your cat or dog quickly. Basically, their only concern is FOOD.

We have seen Kunes in fields with bison, horses, cows, sheep, chickens and more. Loud noises do not scare them easily, e.g. lawnmowers, trucks, planes or gunshots.

When do I call a vet?

When properly fed and housed, a pig should stay in good health. If allowed to lay on wet straw, cold ground, or in a draft, they could develop a cold, bronchitis or mange.

The first sign of illness is lethargy and has no interest in it’s feed. Listen for wheezing and check for thick mucus in the nose. Take their temperature rectally, normal is 101 – 102 degrees. Call a large animal vet for a cold symptoms, fever, any swelling, limping or drunken gait.

WORMING: Most animals are born with intestinal round worms. Worming in Spring and Fall is essential. Use worming pellets available at feed stores, or call your vet for a shot. If using pellets, please follow amount directions on package, and mix with regular feed pellets for better taste. When buying on line look for Fenbendazole pellets for swine.

Call us for a list of large animal (livestock) vets in the Long Island area, and we are available to answer any questions.

Do I have to groom my pig?

Yes, your pig would appreciate it! And especially if your pig will be coming into your home occasionally.

Pigs get flaky skin on their backs and it itches. Use a stiff brush with hard coconut oil, it brings out their colors. Wipe eyes gently with a warm damp cloth to wipe off any crusting. Toe nails may need clipping, but walking on soil usually keeps them in check. Clip nails if pig has difficulty walking. Use a goat hoof clipper and clip around the edges of the horseshoe-shaped clove.

TIP: Handle your pig’s feet from an early age and get it used to your touch. Relax the pig with a belly rub, and it should let you clip nails without restraint.

Using a hose on your pig is not a good idea, and they hate it. Water my be pushed into the ear, with bacteria, and cause an ear infection. Pour buckets of sun warmed water over it’s back to wash off mud. Avoid the ears. Baby shampoo or pig shampoo may be used. Never clean out a pig’s ear with a swab.

What about predators?

Pigs have few enemies, due to their natural coating of thick fat, muscle and agility. Predators may try, but pigs have a natural instinct to scream and wiggle when attacked, so hawks, foxes and racoons will vamoose. Big rogue dogs may try, so watch out for strays.

Very small piglets are vulnerable, but, by the age of sale, they will be able to fend off most predators.

Fleas, ticks and mosquitos are no problem, as there’s no blood source that’s reachable on a pig due to their thick layer of fat. Check inside the ear in summer months, ticks can sometimes find some thin skin In that area.

Why do pigs need a wallow?

Wallowing in mud is a pig’s favorite pastime. It acts a sunblock for their backs (they sunburn easily) and flop their bellies in it to stay cool. Mud acts as a skin cleanser for pig’s skin, ridding them of any mites and softening flaky skin.

Funnily enough, adult pigs like their wallow in the sun, younger piglets won’t wallow until a little older, but love a kiddie paddling pool with a few inches of water.

Making a wallow is easy. No digging. Read more information about wallows in the “PREP FOR YOUR PIG” section

Can I pick my pig up?

Pigs don’t like to be picked up as they assume you are a predator and will wiggle and scream. As they get to know you, they probably won’t mind, as they love to be cuddled.

It will hurt if you pick up by the ribs and belly. The trick is to put one hand under the front of the pig, under the breastbone, and cup the other hand under it’s behind. Come in from both ends, so to speak. Then put it on your chest, wrap your arms around and always hold a rear leg with one hand. Legs are their get-a-way, so immobilize one. They can be picked up also by both back legs, for a few seconds, hung upside down, for a quick hoist from pen to container, or into your arms.

Tip: put some food on the ground first, and they are busy eating and will stand still while you grab.

What documents will my pig have?

Your Kunekune will be given a herd number assigned by a National Registry in the USA. Every Kunekune piglet is litter notified so a good registry of the breed can be maintained and breeding data watched carefully.

Each piglet comes with a copy of the parent’s bloodlines and breeding information going back 3-4 generations, and its own information of birth, lineage and herd number.

We also microchip each piglet and treat it for worms before leaving.

If, at any time in the first year, you find that pig keeping is not for you, you may return the pig to us (sorry, no refund) and we find it an adoptive family.

What are the steps to buying a piglet?

Once the decision has been agreed on by all household members, visit our farm, play with the piglets for sale, and the piglet usually chooses you! If undecided, place a small deposit on one you like, and come back again later and make your decision. Or you can wait until another litter is born.

Look around the farm to get ideas for your housing and pen preparations (see section on “Prep for your pig”) and chat to the breeder with any questions. We generally have piglets of all ages, 10 weeks to 1 year. Older piglets are often a better choice if using them on a farm for clean-up, or around horses, cattle or goats.

Please take note: a pig is not a fashion accessory, or a wrestling buddy. It needs to do what pigs do.

We take cash or credit cards for payment. Sorry, no checks.

What are the benefits of owning a pig?

  • • Wonderful companionship for you and your other pets.
  • • Great way to teach children about livestock care, not to be afraid.
  • • Very calming and cathartic. Try pig yoga, or lay down in their “house” they love to take naps with you.
  • • It’s a myth that pigs are dirty. Quite the opposite.
  • • Pigs are incredibly intelligent, same as a 3 yr old human.
  • • They train very quickly
  • • Make great lawn mowers and weed eaters. When your pig is familiar with its home and owners, let it out of the pen to roam. Will clean the place up, especially your woods.
  • • Pigs know what’s poisonous, they just won’t eat it.
  • • They eat fleas, ticks and mites. Don’t get them either, no blood source
  • • Hypoallergenic. They have bristle, not hair or fur.
  • • Easy to keep if the pig habitat is set up properly. Low maintenance.

Prep for a Pet

What You Need To Do ...

The Layout

ACREAGE. The more room the better. Pigs love to wander and forage. You will need an outdoor area of untreated grass, size according to the number of pigs, at least ½ acre for 2 pigs. A fully fenced-in backyard is a plus. Don’t worry about poisonous plants, pigs instinctively know, and won’t eat them.

A wooded area is a plus. Try and incorporate it in your layout, pigs are omnivores and love worms and grubs from the forest floor.

If your backyard is manicured and boasting beautiful flower beds, better keepyour pigs in another area.

The Pen

A pig needs his own territory with a shelter. A place to call home. This will give you peace of mind and let you know they are safe at night, when you are out, or on vacation. Let them out and wander around when you are home.

Recommended pen size for one pig, at least 14’x16’.

Do not build on a low lying, soggy area. Try for a sunny, dry area, with shade trees or bushes.

FENCING: Recommended – 32” high, 4x4 wood posts, 2x6 top and bottom rails on inside of posts, and 4’ wide welded wire attached on the inside. Bend excess wire on the bottom inward and pin to ground. Pigs can’t get out and nothing can get in. Nice appearance also.

The Shelter

The key to keeping a pig healthy is a warm, dry, draft-less shelter lined with straw. Laying in damp bedding, in a cold draft can cause mange, colds, bronchitis, fever. Using a low heat lamp (150 watt) in realy cold or rainy spells, will dry the straw and your pig, as pigs will stay out in the rain or snow to eat. Leave it on at night during spells of 20 degrees and below.

RECOMMENDED: POLYDOMES

Polydome igloos are geothermal. They are placed on bare ground and, being opaque, the sun radiates heat into the dome, and the floor retains the heat for extra warmth at night. Lightweight, easy move and flip for cleaning, indestructible and no maintenance. The round shape make it wind resistant, has a top vent for summer.

They are less expensive than a wood shed or corrugated metal structures. (Wood structures also tend to rot over time, leak and become drafty). Place the pig housing on the highest point of your layout, and pick a sheltered, sunny spot for the winter. Use a shade cloth over the housing in the summer if there is no natural shade from trees.

BEDDING           

Please use straw and not hay. Hay is dried grass for pigs to eat in the winter, straw is the stalk of harvested wheat.

HAY is unsuitable for bedding as it absorbs moisture and packs down to a soggy mess.

STRAW is bouncier, pigs like to chew it to break it up and pack it down to form a thick mattress. Do not change the bedding in the winter unless it gets wet or dirty. Allow it to build up to at least 6 inches to form a good cold barrier. Add a few flakes of straw every week to keep the top of bedding fluffy (a flake is about 4“ wide and about 8 make up a whole bale). Pigs like to bury their heads under straw to prevent freezing of their eyes, nose and ear tips.

Clean out the housing when hot weather hits and use very little straw. Turn the shelter so the door faces North in the summer and turn again to face South East in the winter. After a cold night, pigs love to warm up in the early morning sun.

Polydomes are available for purchase at our location. We sell the 5 foot wide polydome (approx 5' high) which is perfect to house between 1-4 pet pigs. Also available are vinyl door strip assembly (installed) and heat lamps with bulb, chain and hooks. Please contact us for more information on purchasing a polydome!

The Wallow and Shade

THE WALLOW

PIGS GOTTA WALLOW. Rolling in mud leaves a nice sun block on a pig’s back. Also, mud is a skin softener for a flaky back and will clean the skin of tiny mites. Make sure the wallow water is freshened daily and is free of debris and poop. Easy to do. Don’t do the digging, the pig will do it.

Eyeball what looks like the lowest area of the pen and run water from a hose in it. Let the water seek the lowest level. Keep it wet and soggy for a few days by adding water each day. The pig will start digging and make its own shallow wallow, and contour the mud to its own liking.

Believe it or not, pigs like their wallow in the sun!

THE SHADE      

PIGS SUNBURN EASILY. Even with thick bristle. Their eyes, nose, tip of the ear and backs are at risk, so from late Spring onwards provide shade in their pen. If there is no natural shade from trees or bushes for at least 8 hours per day, provide one.

Shade clothes come in all sizes and shapes, with long string ties and can be hoisted and strung across any pen. We like the sail shaped clothes, available on- line in many colors and look very attractive.

Feeding Your Pig

Feeding, Weight Check & Grooming

Feeding
  • • Keeping your pig at a healthy weight is your goal. They will constantly act as though they are hungry, so don’t be fooled, and follow a feeding schedule. An overweight pig will not be able to move freely, joints will hurt and will be miserable.
  • • Pigs must have hog pellets every day as they contain essential vitamins and minerals. Pellets are high in protein and can be very fattening. A full grown pig gets approx. 1 cup ofpellets per day, but follow the instructions on the feed bag label. Feed according to pig weight.
  • • Hog pellets are available at local feed stores. Organic pig feed is available on line, so a single piglet will take a while to eat a whole bag, so go for the extra few dollars.
  • • Throw pig food on the ground, don’t use a feed pan. This encourages ingestion of soil, which also contains iron and necessary minerals.
  • • Pigs love any fruits and vegetables and can have as much as they want. Favorites are apples, pumpkin, tomatoes, squash, carrots, bananas, oranges. Always cook potatoes and rice.
  • • Do not feed them any meat, may encourage cannibalism.
  • • Bakery products, bread, cake, bagels etc. are not a good idea.

  • • For a small treat, shelled peanuts and Cheerios can be given.
  • • Untreated grass/pasture is the major staple of their diet.
  • • Keep to a feeding schedule, same time every day if possible, to avoid any grunting for food every time you walk by.
  • • Pigs are omnivores, which means they eat everything, including worms, bugs and roots from the floor of the woods. If you have woods, let them go for it.
Healthy Weight Check
  • Eyeball your pig. The body should not look like a tube with a wide back. Tail should be up, either curly or straight.
  • Back should be straight when the head is up, and show a slight arch when head is bent to the ground. Pasterns (trotters) should be high and not “flatfooted”
  • A Kune characteristic is a round belly, but there should be a definition indent behind front shoulder and before the ham.

THIS IS THE FORMULA TO ASSESS YOUR PIG’S WEIGHT:
(GIRTH2 x LENGTH) ÷ 400 = WEIGHT OF PIG

  1. Using a cloth tape measure, wrap it round the pig’s body behind the front legs to measure the girth.
  2. Run the tape measure from the base of the pig’s skull to the start of its tail to obtain the length.
  3. Do the math. It’s pretty accurate!
Grooming
  • Eyes should be bright, clear and carefully cleaned with a damp cloth to remove built up crust.
  • Check ears for ticks, but never clean out with an ear swab.
  • Hooves can be clipped with goat shears and smoothed with a Dremel. if necessary. Walking on soil usually keeps hooves at a healthy length. Trim if pig has difficulty walking from long cloves.
  • Check the bellies occasionally to look for bright red spots or rashes, or any sign of black sooty areas. If so, call the vet.
  • To keep skin from flaking brush with hard coconut oil. They love to be brushed and the oil makes their color pop.
  • Using a water hose a pig is not a good idea, and they rarely like it Pour sun warmed water over their backs from a bucket to clean them instead. Avoid getting water in the ears as it can carry bacteria into the ear canal and cause infection. The ear canal is close to the brain and can lead to a wobbly gait, deafness and blindness.

Contact & Directions

Please contact us with any questions about pigs, pets, breeding stock, or meat. Also get in touch with us for a tour of the farm and pigs! We will be happy to help you choose a pet pig, and answer questions about care and housing.

70 Woodlawn Avenue
East Moriches NY 11940
631-874-8029
CELL: 631-278-7779
kunesue@gmail.com
www.likunekune.com

GPS and Google Maps directions ...

GPS: N.40 deg 48' 34.5" by W. 72 deg 44' 49.5" Coming from the east, New York, Nassau County or eastern Suffolk Sunrise Hwy to Exit 61. Make right to County Road 51. Continue south to Montauk Hwy. (3 mins) Make right on Montauk Hwy, go under train trestle, make first left (Woodlawn Ave) Go 1/2 mile, farm on right. Coming from the East, (Hamptons, North Fork, Riverhead) Sunrise Hwy to exit 62 (no ramp at exit 61) Take service road to Manor Road, make right, then make left onto County Road 51. Continue south to Montauk Hwy, make right, go under train trestle. Make first left onto Woodlawn Ave. Go 1/2 mile, farm on right.

Google Maps: